Rewind: The day the Tsar came to stay

By The Editor

8th Oct 2020 | Local News

REWIND: Welcome to this new series, which will recall momentous days in the town's history, events that happened in living memory - and much further back.

Is there an event you have always been curious about? Let us know and we will dig into the archives, try to piece together the puzzles of the past, and reawaken some memories.

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One momentous day in early spring 1698 a procession rode into town from the north.

Splendidly attired, and equipped to fight, the men of the cavalcade clustered protectively around one figure as they made their way into the main street.

Peter the Great, Tsar of Russia, was in town - and his men at arms were heading to the Kings Arms and Royal Hotel to sate their prodigious appetites.

The Tsar and his 21-strong entourage stayed in the town for just one night, in March 1698.

The visit came as the Tsar and his party returned to Portsmouth after a visit to London.

Born on June 9th 1672, Peter came to the throne at the age of 10, and ruled Russia jointly with his brother Ivan until the latter's death in 1696.

As Sovereign of all Russia, Peter set about making the country a major player on the world stage. He invited craftsmen, scholars and scientists from across Europe to visit Russia, and journeyed to several European capitals to meet heads of state and the best and brightest brains of the period.

It was on his way home from a trip to London that he and his group arrived for an overnight stay in Godalming.

His visit must have caused great excitement in the town - and no doubt a great deal of work for the poor souls who had to cater to the visitors' every need!

The diarist John Evelyn, who had hosted the party in London, described the Russians as 'a right nasty lot'.

One can only imagine the chaos backstairs at the inn as the staff were run ragged catering for their guests. The cooks, particularly, were in the firing line at dinner as the visitors chomped their way through 42lbs (19 kilos) of beef, a whole sheep, three quarters of lamb, a big chunk of veal, eight pullets (chickens) and eight rabbits, all washed down with a dozen bottles of claret.

For breakfast they contented themelves with just half a sheep, a quarter of lamb, 10 pullets, 12 chickens and 72 eggs. Fortified by the six quarts of mulled wine and three quarts of brandy they also downed, they then continued on their merry way to Portsmouth.

But perhaps Peter and his courtiers liked the place so much they didn't want to leave: the hotel is said to be haunted by the Tsar himself, and the sound of heavy boots being taken off and dumped on the floor of one of the bedrooms is said to be heard in the small hours...

In 1998, the Go Godalming Association marked the 300th anniversary of the visit, and forged links with the Fili district of Moscow. The plaque now visible on the front wall of the building was the work of Fili craftsmen. It bears a carving of Peter's head and the words: "Russian Czar Peter the Great visited Godalming in March 1698 and stayed overnight at the Kings Arms Inn. This plaque was cast and presented to citizens of Godalming by citizens of Moscow Fili District to commemorate the tercentenary of this visit."

     

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